Springfield Model 951 410 Bolt Action, Cats Protection North Wirral, St Dominic Catholic Church Bulletin, If An Industry Has A Level Of Market Commonality, Articles H

I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? Let's start by not assuming anything. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. That is not the way to go. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. Thanks! I will turn it up some. Holley Sniper IAC | Chevy Nova Forum If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. Explained: Holley EFI Sensors and What They Do is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Holley Sniper How To Set The IAC (Idle Air Control) in 5 - YouTube The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Nice to meet you. I keep wondering how it was running so good with I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. It could be a couple of things. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. Enjoy your Sniper! Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. :-). However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Give us a hand! It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at I did change the -40 thing also. I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. That is certainly not normal! The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. This is very disappointing as people love to hear the motor while the hood is open.Thanks Jon. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) The fix? So glad this was helpful. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. I did notice that when I thought I had it set It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. They are prone to be inaccurate. )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. I will let you know what the results are. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. Once you so this, and after you have your CAN-to-USB harness attached to your laptop with the Sniper software, you can see precisely the cells where the system is operating when the bog occurs. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. These problems will go away when you do that. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Thanks in advance for any advice. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. IAC Creeps To 100% - Holley Performance Products Forums datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. It didnt do this with the carb on it. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. I had this same exact issue. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. MAP Sensor. Holley Sniper EFI Problems: Best Fixes According to Manufacturer If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. 2. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. That is the first thing you must find. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. You advise would be greatly appreciated. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. is the fuel pressure. Reducing that a bit will help. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. The distributor was loose. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. If more info is needed just ask. Thank you very much. Good luck! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to So the issue Im having is low idle. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. Price Point: $$$. :-). The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. = 2.34 Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. Good Holley Sniper EFI 543-122 Sniper EFI Remote IAC Kit I've changed all the Sniper EFI Update: Weeks Later, Do I Still Feel It Was Worth It? 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Thanks for the info Chris. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? First thing I would check With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. What you are experiencing is rather common. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) All times are GMT-6. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you.